Ender 3 Pro Dub Edition

Just ask for parts links. All links will go through Amazon.com. Not sponsored, just prefer the ease of use.

This will be my main page where Ill compile a greatest hits list of Ender 3 Pro upgrades. Mind you some files or upgrades included are more difficult than others and may require some modification or extra tools/parts. Ive tried to stay as “cheap” as possible while keeping quality and speed a priority. This started out as a single Ender 3 Pro, found some deals on another, then got fed up with the slow speed of both so I combined them. So given the premise, I have already started out with two of most everything to run a printer. You will need to source your own parts if you do not have them already or plan not to use any links provided. Again, this build is MOST BANG FOR BUCK! Now on to the build and process. This is a first upload so details may be sparse, JUST ASK if anything doesnt make sense or need further clarification/explanation.

Dual motor mounts for all axis are required. Upgraded motors are not necessary and may need further modification for fitment. Ill be using stock motors for the time being to save on overall cost.

If you decide to upgrade to dual extrusion, appropiate upgrades such as Mosiac multi filament controller and a Chimera dual extruder would do. I have files for those but no parts so Ill save that for a later date unless asked.

For hot end cover/shroud/etc

I have included a honerable mention that just keeps on giving. Red Squirrel has made one fine piece of work. Granted it does have its limits when dealing with higher temp materials around the Nylon range. Im also including a file for v6/dragon/mosquito type hot ends.

–For part cooling, you can either go remote cooling or blower fans. I do no recommend any radial fans for 3d printing since most parts we need to cool are in tight spaces and blower fans do a better job with static pressure. Not to down play quality fans like Noctua. But I can buy a pack of 4 blowers for the price of one Noctua so you know the right choice for this build.

–For hot end cooling I would highly recommend upgrading to a v6 hot end. For the price point that Microswiss full metal hot end compared to v6 hotend and their features, no reason to pay the extra price for direct mount when there are plenty of support for various hot end out there. I have chosen a Triangle Lab Dragon Hot End. Saved about 10 compared to microswiss full metal.

There are so many direct drive setups out there so really its up to you and what fits with that you choose. I have included the basic one I use daily.

Since I have two PSU’s, I have elected to not to go with 120v heated bed. I usually print back to back so it doesnt take much time to warm back up, level, then keep on going. One PSU is dedicated to control panel and electronics, the other is signaled through basically the same system as a aftermarket 120v SSR system except being powered by the secondary PSU @ 24v. This will keep the sensitive electronics at full unbridled power delivery. PSU’s are at peak efficiency at around 50% load. Then given the crappy “case as a heatsink….with no fins or baffels…..” design these Meanwell PSUs arent at all great with heat dissapation. NOT AT ALL. And the temperature fan profiling on the PSU is crap. Ive had a overheating PSU full stock, but when the fan is running full power all the time(a little modding) the PSU never requests cooling and stays at worst warm.

YES this printer can print composites like wood, carbon fiber, stainless, copper and so on. Ive found with abrasive filaments using stock brass nozzles I can run about 200g’s of filament before needing to replace the tip. So Id recommend upgrading to plated copper or hardened steel. A little trick Ive found to help lubricate the throat, tubing, etc to prevent anyclogging with fiberous materials is lightly spray the filement with pure silicone or other safe lubricants. Is it a little more of a mess to clean up? Yes. Yes Yes. But absolutly worth it. Havent had a single clog since even with stock bowden tubing.

Speaking of bowden tubing, I have not had any problems with the stock tube provided so I have no interest in the Capricorn upgrade that most rant about. I understand why one would upgrade, but so far I have not had any problems and a wise women has always told me, “If its not broken, dont fix it.” So that stands here.

Sticking with the area of extruder/filament. I run direct drive just for the ease of printing with whatever. I also run remote extruder for management long distance. That eases the strain on brittle or flexible filaments.

For filament guides and wire managment, I have decided to rig up a linear rail on the top rail of the printer with a carriage mounted to provide as least strain on the wires/filament/hotend as possible. It will mimic the motions of the x axis either being “dragged” along, OR Im planning on rigging up a “auxilary” x axis stepper that actuates the carriage for all the “junk” the needs to go into the hot end. Idk…..thinking maybe create a “home” base charging port when the x carriage returns home…then that contacts charging plates to recharge the say lipo battery mounted on the hotend…then maybe rigging up an arduino of some sort to wirelessly transmit the required signals for the extruder and voltage regulation of the fans or whatnot. Random ideas, Ill have to see if say the wireless setup from a quadcopter or something like that, that drives stepper motors wirelessly with very little lag input vs output, then Ill whip up some designs and mock ups for proof of concept. Might have to recalibrate e steps considering the difference of driving programs of the 3d printer and quad. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm tasty ideas.