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January 20, 2025

THE BEAST – FULLY 3D PRINTED FRAME AND RAILS 3D PRINTER

large_preview_20200421_215627.jpg

This is still a work in progress,, but I feel it’s far enough along to share the design if anyone is looking for a project while sheltering in their home.

Some assembly required…

This project is not for the faint of heart.

That being said.. This is a very large project that will take a lot of time to build.

I had some spare parts laying around, including a spare Anycubic Chiron heated bed (400×400), Steppers, main board, display, extruder, etc.. I was thinking I wanted to see if I could turn those spare parts into another printer.

Of course I can… however, I wanted to see if it could be done without having to purchase extrusions, AND be fully printable on a smaller 200×200 printer. This was the challenge here.

Well, it does work, and in hindsight, extrusions might be quicker and easier.

What I designed is a large format printer, that can be printed on a small printer. (Yes, this will take a few spools of filament)

I named it “The Beast” because,, well,, it’s huge. The final footprint of this printer is almost a full meter wide, and over a meter deep, not counting the power supply that sits next to it, that I still need to design an enclosure for.

Design specs

  • 400x400x300 print area, and you can go taller if you want to customize.
  • Anycubic Ultrabase comes with the heated bed.
  • Main board I used is Trigorilla 1.1 based on RAMPS 1.4.
  • A4988 Drivers, but will soon upgrade to TMC2208 because they are MUCH quieter.
  • Firmware is Marlin 1.1.9 is what I used.
  • Display is a RepRap 12864 display with custom boot logo.
  • Auto leveling with a BLTouch from Antlabs
  • 24V 720W power supply and a 24V-12V 30A converter.
  • Mosfet for the heated bed. (24V and 500W for bed)
  • Bed runs on 24V, everything else is standard 12V
  • Built-in belt tensioners for both X and Y belts
  • Adjustable end stops.
  • Everything is 3D printable, and snaps together in most places. No glue needed.
  • You can print this on a small printer then use it’s parts to make this one.
  • Coming soon – Filament runout sensor
  • The Hotend bracket is customisable and mounts to carriage with a dovetail joint. Step file included.

Printing

  • All parts are in the correct orientation that they should be printed. There were a couple files for the frame that needed a small support, and I built that into the STL file. Snap off the tiny support and it should be good to go.
  • All parts are designed with a 0.15mm clearance. Unless it’s a part that needs to slide, such as belt tensioners, those have a 0.25mm clearance.
  • DO NOT SCALE if something is too tight. – Instead, adjust your horizontal expansion in shell settings. If you don’t know what this setting is, do a web search and read up on it. It basically compensates for your filament going on wider or not wide enough, and is way better than scaling if things aren’t fitting.
  • Try the Test print first. This will help you gauge if your printer and slicer is tuned enough to print this.
  • Everything is a tight fit.. This is very much on purpose because things need to be tight for this to work right. Can’t have things wiggling around because of loose fits.
  • Use the same filament for X, Y and Z axis parts. I switched filaments on part of mine, and the filament shrunk different amounts and made for some extra sanding to make them fit.. I recommend you stick with the same filament throughout if possible.
  • If you have warping issues or calibration issues, fix that before trying to build this. It will save you a lot of time.
  • Test printing, I’ve included a couple test prints in this. Print these first to make sure your printer is dialed in enough for things to fit correctly. If not, make adjustments to your – – –
  • Horizontal expansion settings. (If too tight, put a negative number, if too loose, put in a positive number)

X Axis and carriage.

  • It’s nearly a meter wide.
  • The “X” pieces help stabilize it from bowing up or down.
  • There are pins inside the top and bottom of the X axis as well.
  • The front and back plates work together to help keep it centered.
  • You can glue it together if you wish, but not needed if the fits are tight.
  • If you glue it, make sure your end stop is in place before gluing the final piece.
  • Once assembled, sand the rails to make them smooth at the seams.
  • There is a belt tensioner in the Extruder carriage.
  • Can adjust the wheels using a 6mm eccentric spacer and adjusted with a 10mm wrench.

    Hardware needed for X Axis
  • M3x8mm – Qty 4 – Stepper motor mount
  • M3x30mm w/nut – Qty 1 – Pulley mount
  • M3x20mm w/nut – X-Axis End stop plate. This screw holds it in place.
  • M5x55mm w/nut – Qty 4 – Wheel mounts on outside of X-Axis
  • M5x50mm w/nut – Qty 2 – Wheel mounts on inside of X-Axis
  • 24mm pulley wheel – Qty 6 – Wheels to mount the X-Axis
  • 6mm Eccentric spacer – Qty 6 – For wheel adjustment.
  • Nema 17 Stepper motor – Qty 1 – I went with a 40mm motor here.
  • 1 meter Stepper motor cable.
  • 2+ meters of GT2 6mm belt.
  • 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 5mm bore for stepper motor side.
  • 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 3mm bore bearings on pulley side.

    Carriage parts
  • M3x50mm w/nut – Qty 1 – X-Axis belt tensioner
  • M3x20mm w/nut – Qty 2 – Turbo fan mount
  • M3x6mm w/nut – Qty 2 – BLTouch mount
  • M5x40mm w/nut – Qty 3 – For holding the wheels on..
  • M2x10mm w/nut – Qty 2 – End stop switch – May vary depending on what switch you use.
  • 24mm pulley wheel – Qty 3 – Wheels to mount the carriage
  • End stop switch – Qty 1
  • Extruder – I went with a Titan, but likely fine with others.
  • M3 Screws for Extruder to stepper will vary depending on what extruder you use.
  • Nema 17 Stepper – I went with a slim one to cut back on weight.
  • 2 Meter Stepper motor cable.
  • Turbo fan for parts cooling
  • Hotend
  • BLTrouch is optional, but recommended. With 2M cable

Y Axis and carriage.

  • The Y carriage needs to be a tight fit. This is what holds up the bed and rides on the rails.
  • I put holes in the Y rails for wires to get through as needed.
  • The front, rear, and center parts can be screwed down to a board to make it more sturdy.
  • Can try a 6mm GT2 belt, but I made this large enough to accomodate a 10mm belt if needed. (Parts listed below are based on 10mm belt)
  • Adjust the belt tension with the 2 screws on the front.
  • Can adjust the wheels using a 6mm eccentric spacer and adjusted with a 10mm wrench.
  • Sand the rails to make them smooth at the seams

    Parts needed for Y axis
  • M3x50mm w/nut – Qty 2 – Belt tensioner.
  • M3x10mm – Qty 4 – Stepper motor mount
  • M3x20mm w/nut – Qty 1 – Limit switch mount
  • M5x45mm w/nut – Qty 1 – Belt tensioner.
  • M5x40mm w/nut – Qty 8 – Y carriage wheel screws
  • 6mm Eccentric spacer – Qty 4 – Wheel adjustment
  • 24mm pulley wheel – Qty 8 – Wheels to mount the carriage
  • 25mmx10mm O.D x5mm I.D. Spring – Qty 4 – Heat bed springs
  • 5mm Wing nut – Qty 4 – Heat bed nuts
  • Anycubic Chiron heated bed 400×400 – Comes with print surface.
  • 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth – 5mm bore pulley for Stepper motor
  • 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth – 5mm bore pulley for tensioner.
  • Nema 17 Stepper motor – I went with a 60mm here, but this maxes out my drivers if I send all the current it can handle.
  • 2.5+ meters of GT2 10mm belt
  • 36” x 36” (Yes, barbarian units) flat MDF board to mount this to.
  • Wood screws – Qty 9 – To hold it down

Z Axis – Main frame

  • The main frame parts have a fit that helps make it more rigid and no glue is needed.
  • The locking pin helps keep the frame parts seated.
  • The Z rails also overlap the main frame seams to make it even more rigid.
  • The stabilizer is built into the design and will help keep it square.
  • Sand the rails when assembled to make it roll smoothly at the seams.

    I- used a T8 4-Start lead screw that’s commonly available.

    Parts needed
  • M3x10mm – Qty 8 – Holds feet to frame
  • M3x10mm – Qty 1 – Optional end stop mount if BL touch isn’t used.
  • M3x8mm – Qty 8 – Screws for stepper motor mount
  • M3x8mm – Qty 4 – Screws for lead screw nut
  • Nema 17 Steppers – Qty 2 – Dual Z axis motors
  • T8 500mm Lead screw – Qty 2 – For the Z axis.
  • Anti-Backlash T8 lead screw nut – Qty 2 – Helps with Z accuracy.
  • 5mm to 8mm coupler – Qty 2 – The connection from stepper to lead screw

Total parts needed

  • M2x10mm w/nut – Qty 2 – May vary depending on what limit switch you use.
  • M3x6mm w/nut – Qty 2
  • M3x8mm – Qty 16
  • M3x10mm – Qty 13
  • M3x20mm – Qty 4
  • M3x30mm – Qty 1
  • M3x50mm Qty 3
  • M3 Nuts – Qty 23
  • M5x40mm – Qty 11
  • M5x45mm – Qty 1
  • M5x50mm – Qty 2
  • M5x55mm – Qty 4
  • M6 Nuts – Qty 16
  • 24mm pulley wheel – Qty 17
  • 6mm Eccentric spacer – Qty 11
  • End Stop switch – Qty 2 (Or 3 if you choose no BLtouch)
  • BLTouch – Qty 1 – With 2M cable
  • 2+ meters of GT2 6mm belt.
  • 6mm wide 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 5mm bore
  • 6mm wide 16 tooth GT2 pulley with 3mm bore bearings
  • 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth – 5mm bore pulley for Stepper motor
  • 10mm wide GT2 20 tooth – 5mm bore pulley for tensioner.
  • 2.5+ meters of GT2 10mm belt
  • Nema 17 Stepper motor – Qty 5 (May vary in size)
  • 1 meter Stepper motor cable. – Qty 3
  • 2 meter Stepper motor cable. – Qty 2
  • Anycubic 400×400 Heat bed for Chiron (Comes with surface) 24V @ 500W
  • 25mmx10mm O.D x5mm I.D. Spring – Qty 4 – Heat bed springs
  • 5mm Wing nut – Qty 4 – Heat bed nuts
  • Extruder – I went with a Titan, but likely fine with others.
  • M3 Screws for Extruder to stepper will vary depending on what extruder you use.
  • 12V Turbo fan for parts cooling
  • 12V Hotend
  • T8 500mm Lead screw – Qty 2 – For the Z axis.
  • Anti-Backlash T8 lead screw nut – Qty 2 – Helps with Z accuracy.
  • 5mm to 8mm coupler – Qty 2 – The connection from stepper to lead screw
  • 36” x 36” (Yes, barbarian units) flat MDF board to mount this to.
  • Wood screws – Qty 9 – To hold it down
  • 720W 24V Power supply minimal. Prefer 1000W 24V if you can get one.
  • Power cord for supply
  • Power switch for 120V to supply
  • 24V to 12V 30A converter, or separate 12V power supply
  • 30A Mosfet for switching current to heat bed
  • Main board – I went with Trigorilla since I had one already
  • Stepper drivers – I went with TMC2208 – QTY 4 is needed, but get 5.
  • Fan for Stepper drivers
  • Various wires and Dupont or JST connectors.
  • Wire wrap for bundles and keeping things tidy.
  • 3-4 Spools of Filament (Yup, it’s a lot of printing to make something this size)

What to print

Y Carriage

  • Bed Hub.stl – Qty 1
  • Bed Arm.stl – Qty 4 (They are all the same, just inserted upside down in 2 spots)
  • M5 6mm Spacers – Qty 12
  • M5 1 mm spacers – Qty 8 (Used M5 between nut and wheel)

    Y Axis
  • Y Rail Segment.stl – Qty 8
  • Y Rail pin.stl – Qty 14
  • Y Front Center.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Front Right.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Front Left.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Rear Center.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Rear Right.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Rear Left.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Rail Belt tensioner.stl – Qty 2
  • Y Rail tie mid.stl – Qty 3
  • Y Rail tie square.stl – Qty 6
  • Y Rail to leg pin.stl – Qty 2
  • Y Rail to leg tie left.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Rail to leg tie right.stl – Qty 1
  • Y Axis switch mount.stl – Qty 1

    X Axis
  • X Axis 100 Center.stl – Qty 1
  • X Axis 180 Center.stl – Qty 2
  • X Axis left front.stl – Qty 1
  • X Axis left rear.stl – Qty 1
  • X Axis right front.stl – Qty 1
  • X Axis right rear.stl – Qty 1
  • X Axis pin short.stl – Qty 4 (links the 100mm center piece)
  • X Axis pin long.stl – Qty 4
  • X Axis pulley bracket.stl – Qty 1
  • X Axis X.stl – Qty 4
  • X Axis switch mount – Qty 1 – Used as something for the limit switch to hit or mount for switch.
  • M5 6mm spacers – Qty 16
  • M3 1mm spacers – Qty 5 (for X axis pulley)

    Main frame / Z Axis
  • Fram pin.stl – Qty 10
  • Lead screw top pin.stl – Qty 4
  • Lead screw top.stl – Qty 2
  • Main left inside leg.stl – Qty 1
  • Main left outside leg.stl – Qty 1
  • Main right inside leg.stl – Qty 1
  • Main right outside leg.stl – Qty 1
  • Main lower left.stl – Qty 1
  • Main lower right.stl – Qty 1
  • Main mid upright.stl – Qty 4 – Has a support tab that you snap off.
  • Main top center.stl – Qty 1
  • Main top inter.stl – Qty 2
  • Main top left.stl – Qty 1
  • Main top right.stl – Qty 1
  • Z rail 35.stl – Qty 2 – Inside top of Z axis
  • Z rail 112.stl – Qty 2 – Outside top of Z axis
  • Z rail Long.stl – Qty 12 – Z Axis rails slide onto frame
  • Optional – Optical Z mount.stl – Qty 1 or 2 depending on what you are doing.
  • Optional – Optical Z mount tab.stl – Qty 1 or 2 depending on what you are doing.

    Stabilizer
  • Pin to Y front.stl – Qty 2
  • Stabilizer lower.stl – Qty 2
  • Stabilizer middle.stl – Qty 4
  • Stabilizer upper.stl – Qty 2
  • Stabilizer pin.stl – Qty 12

    Extruder mount
  • Extruder bracket.stl – Qty 1
  • Extruder fan bracket.stl – Qty 1
  • Extruder mounting plate.stl – Qty 1
  • X tensioner 1.stl – Qty 1
  • X tensioner 2.stl – Qty 1
  • BL Touch mount.stl – Qty 1 – Optional if using BL Touch
  • X Limit switch mount with BL Touch.stl – Qty 1 – Optional if using BL Touch
  • X Limit switch mount without BL Touch.stl – Qty 1 – Optional is not using BL Touch

This article was first featured at https://ift.tt/2KnxFBl on April 22, 2020 at 02:24AM by Smithy2

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